Even minimalist skincare routines require a little knowledge to ensure that products layer and work effectively. This guide will help you understand the basic premise behind layering and critical things to keep top of mind as you put together your daily skincare regimen.
Not all categories and steps are required. Everyone's skin in different and requires trial and error to find the right mix of ingredients and products that work. For example, I only use a micellar water cleanser, hydrating toner, moisturizer, oil, and SPF for my AM routine. Some people have a 10 step routine, others a 2 step routine. The fun is learning what works for you.
Below is a generalized view of product order / layering from left to right, top to bottom:
Why Is Order Important When Layering Skincare?
Product order ensures that your skin benefits the most from your skincare's actives and key ingredients. Water and oil are generally the primary division of skincare products (silicone is not covered here in detail, see below for basic thoughts). Water and oil-based products are applied in a specific order because they naturally tend to repel and separate from each other without an emulsifier. This order (Water > Emulsion > Oils > SPF) allows your skin to absorb and benefit before moving on to the next step.
The cleansing step will vary greatly by skin type and experimentation will help you discover your skin's needs. At it's simplest, micellar water can be used to remove dirt and sebum from the skin at the end of the day. This works well for those that don't have acne or wear extensive make-up. This is my preferred approach to cleansing because it is gentle and effective for my rosacea prone skin. Other cleansing methods include oil cleansers, water based foaming cleansers, and double cleansing (combining oil and water cleansers in a two step process).
Post-cleansing, water-based products should go first. Within that, you want to do toners, then hydrating mists, followed by serums. If your routine includes chemical exfoliation, it should be done directly after cleansing to prep the skin for additional steps.
Emulsions come directly after water-based products - this includes most face moisturizers and lotions. You can recognize them by their spreadable consistency (as compared to butters or salves).
Emulsions allow for the suspension of hydrophilic (water-loving/water soluble) actives like hyaluronic to be blended with skin-nourishing oils in a single product.
Lastly, if you include facial oils in your routine, apply last after emulsions and before SPF. I apply drops of oil to my fingertips and pat into my skin over areas where their benefits are most needed.
When to Do Your Skincare Routine?
Apply directly after cleansing while your skin is still damp. This application is essential to ensure the effectiveness of products that hydrate the skin and lock in moisture. If your skin dries before you apply moisturizer, you will lose some of the skin's natural hydration.
When Should You Apply Skincare Active Ingredients?
Answer? It depends. Different actives are soluble in either water or oil. Using the above approach, you first introduce your active ingredients in water solutions, followed by emulsions and oils. The formulation of actives depends on the ingredients included and the intention of the product.
Allow Time Between Each Skincare Step
Skin needs time to absorb actives and other ingredients. For water-based toners and emulsions, I apply these close together to seal in hydration (water) and moisture (oil).
Oils and oil in water emulsions require the most time to rest and absorb before adding additional steps. After applying moisturizer, wait until your skin feels moisturized but not greasy or slick before applying other products. If your skin is still oily or tacky, you may need to reduce the moisturizer you use to find the right balance.
Considerations for Morning and Evening Skincare
The single most significant consideration for what to apply morning vs. evening is photosensitivity. These ingredients can amplify the effects of the sun, even with SPF applied, and lead to sun damage.
The following is a short list of the most common ingredients related to photosensitivity. Please note that there are many photosensitizing ingredients beyond this list, so please research.
- Retinol / Retinoids
- Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
- Salicylic Acid (BHA)
- Benzoyl Peroxide
Silicones in Skincare & Layering
In general, I have neutral feelings about the inclusion of silicones in skincare. I do not use them because they are made using petroleum by-products and some variations come with biodegradability concerns. They generally appear in formulations to add texture and slip but can also be emollient and prevent water loss (TEWL). They are a huge class of lipids just like plant oils and despite having a (incorrect) reputation for comedogencity, can actually be quite light on the skin.
Silicones should be treated just like any other oil when considering where to put them in your routine.
Adding New Products to Your Routine
Patch test. At least for one day before going in fully with a new product. Repair and coming back from inflammation sometimes takes much longer than the damage itself. It is so much easier to just do a small test and learn if you will have a negative reaction.
Add one product at a time unless products are designed to pair. If you are just starting out, use a basic cleanser and a simple moisturizer. Wait to start layering actives until you have a solid foundation in place.
Allow at least a month to observe impact, sometimes more. Patience is the hardest part if you're looking to address a specific concern. However, skipping around in short bursts will not help you understand what works. It's so hard sometimes, but so rewarding when you find the right add.
Aurelian's Botanical Skincare Regimen
Step 1: Micellar Cleansing Water
This ultra gentle, cleansing micellar water removes dirt, make up and impurities to leave behind nourished and cleansed skin. House distilled rose and sage hydrosols plus gentle foaming oats and organic glycerine combine support skin's natural barrier health.
Step 2: Botanical Facial Mist
This water based, hydrating toner delivers anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory plant-based phyto-chemicals to help soothe skin, address free radicals, and prep for hyaluronic.
Step 2: Rose Marula Face Cream
Skin smoothing, moisturizing, and calming - our minimalist face moisturizer is the perfect middle step between hydrating toners and oils. Benefiting from step 1, hydrating toner, skin is plumped and moisturized.
I love to learn about layering tips and tricks from others. If you have something that has helped you build your routine, I would love to hear about it!
XX
Asa
